What wine should you go for this Christmas? Fret not! Our resident Bakewell wine expert and merchant, John Hattersley will be at The Maynard for our annual ‘Wines for Christmas’ wine tasting and wine pairing dinner event.
John is on a mission to help educate, entertain and inspire others with his love, knowledge and expertise of all things wine. Gemma caught up with John to get the lowdown on what we should be popping this festive period when it comes to wine.
Gemma: ‘John, you’re the Peak District’s wine expert. How did you get into doing what you do?’
John: ‘Wow, well how long have you got?!’
‘It all started back in Sheffield in 1975 when I ran Sheffield’s first wine bar. I’d seen the movement away from pubs and drinking beer to wanting to enjoy food with wine or food with drinks and locals wanting it to be more food-orientated. Now this was nothing new. Food and wine have gone together forever but pairing food and wine together properly taking into account the specifics of the wine was what we focused on.'
Gemma: ‘So how do you pair wine and food? What’s the right way to make sure they go together?’
John: ‘I always say “Where it grows, it goes”. For example, in Italy, a lot of the food is acidic. Tomatoes are a staple, whether as the base for pizzas or in pasta dishes. The food also often has a high fat content so the wine has to match that.’
‘One example might be in the Italian mountains where they eat a lot of pork dishes that are high in fat, and very acidic. Naturally in that area, the grapes are grown in conditions that result in wines high in acidity and tannins. So where it grows, it goes.’
‘In Spain, somewhere like the Rioja area, the wines have a natural medium sweetness, tannin and low acidity with a medium to high oakiness that really complements those heavy meat-based dishes you find are synonymous with the heritage of that region.’
‘France has delicate food which goes perfectly together with the original delicate wines from Burgundy and Champagne.’
Gemma: ‘So how does it work with the Wines for Christmas event? How do you pick the wine and the food?’
John: ‘I’ve done a few of these wine-pairing dinners now with The Maynard’s executive chef, Adrian Gagea. He knows what we want and he’s fluent in the produce of The Peak District. We work together to make sure the flavours in the food match the notes in each wine. There’s a lot of thought and expertise that goes into it and it’s a really enjoyable experience putting both the food and wine together and how that impacts your enjoyment of each. Especially if you have never done it before.’
‘The menu is purposely layered and builds with intensity as we progress. We start quite light with both wine and food and then build up to heavier meat courses and then dessert wines to complement the pudding.’
Gemma: ‘And do you suggest people do the same with their own Christmas dinners and wine this year?’
John: ‘Absolutely! It’s something I like to go through at the Wines for Christmas live event. I like to help people understand how to build the wine to a crescendo and take your guests on a journey. You can really impress with a bit of extra knowledge and know-how’.
Executive chef of Longbow Venues, Adrian Gagea
Gemma: ‘So how does it work with the Wines for Christmas event? How do you pick the wine and the food?’
John: ‘I’ve done a few of these wine-pairing dinners now with The Maynard’s executive chef, Adrian Gagea. He knows what we want and he’s fluent in the produce of The Peak District. We work together to make sure the flavours in the food match the notes in each wine. There’s a lot of thought and expertise that goes into it and it’s a really enjoyable experience putting both the food and wine together and how that impacts your enjoyment of each. Especially if you have never done it before.’
‘The menu is purposely layered and builds with intensity as we progress. We start quite light with both wine and food and then build up to heavier meat courses and then dessert wines to complement the pudding.’
Gemma: ‘And do you suggest people do the same with their own Christmas dinners and wine this year?’
John: ‘Absolutely! It’s something I like to go through at the Wines for Christmas live event. I like to help people understand how to build the wine to a crescendo and take your guests on a journey. You can really impress with a bit of extra knowledge and know-how’.
Gemma: 'Talk to me about the wines you’ve picked for ‘Wines for Christmas’. What makes these so special?'
John: ‘I don’t want to give away too much ahead of the night but I’ll tell you about a couple I picked and why.’
‘We’re starting off the night with a glass of Bohigas Cava Reserva from Spain. You’ll love this cava to start the night off. With apples, pears and citrus rind there’s also a subtle hint of spices like cinnamon and biscuit notes so as this is a festive event, it’s the best cava to set the scene.’
‘Adrian has created a wild mushroom & thyme arancini, served with celeriac velouté and vegetable crisps for the starter.’
‘One of the wines to go with this dish is the Spanish Rippa Dorri Organic Verdejo.’
‘We’ve been so lucky to meet the Ontañón Family who make the wines in Ribera del Duero. It was an experience, The Rippa Dorri is amazing. It’s clean, zippy, lemony and has an amazing depth of freshness. The way it is grown and harvested at night to protect the aromas, the area of Ruada which is almost central Spain is well above sea level, about 900 feet. Seeing the region and seeing how it is grown and made gives you such an appreciation for the wine.’
‘It’s also organic and I’m so keen to fly the organic flag.’
Gemma: ‘Why is that?’
John: ‘A lot of people seem to be scared of organic wine, thinking it’s very expensive when in actual fact it’s very competitive and you get what you pay for. I know not everyone has the luxury of being able to visit the vineyards where these organic wines are made so I am really vocal about it. I want to lift the lid on the myths and give people an insight into what it means and how it impacts not only the taste but also how it impacts you as a wine lover. Seeing it with my own eyes gives me the confidence to know that organic means organic. And it’s also sustainable which is so important right now for the future of the vineyards. All the thought and practices that go into making it organic and sustainable mean no pesticides or fertilisers.’
Gemma: ‘Does it alter the taste for the better?’
John: ‘Yes, it can do! When you get that cheaper-end supermarket wine you end up with a horrible headache and hangover. That’s the chemical sprays in the ground, the fertiliser and the pesticides and the sulphur. It all contributes. Cheaper mass-manufactured wine is almost man-made with a prescription. And it has to be. People want a Sauvignon Blanc to taste like a Sauvignon Blanc so things get added to ensure it meets that mass-expected taste. In doing so we’ve lost the ability to recognise the individuality of wine, the nuances of flavour, and we don’t know about the natural biochemistry and geology that all play a part in how you experience and enjoy the wine. I’m so keen to help people recognise good wine, appreciate it and invest in it rather than just grab the widely marketed and recognised plonk you get in every corner shop, every supermarket and every off-licence.’
'Saying this, organic doesn’t always mean it tastes better just like not being organic doesn’t necessarily affect the taste too. The taste is down to the wine maker's ability. We have many wineries who we are working with at Hattersley Wines who produce great wines that aren’t certified organic but they work to those organic principles.'
Gemma: ‘We’ve talked about white wine, cava and organic wines. What about red? What’s your favourite?’
John: ‘That’s like asking me to pick a favourite child! It depends on what I’m eating or the time of year. Although I must say, after decades of enjoying wine, it’s always French Bordeaux or Burgundy.’
‘For the Wines for Christmas event, Adrian has concocted a slow-cooked beef shin served with horseradish mashed potato, sautéed kale, roasted maple carrots, and gravy paired with Château Beaumont from Bordeaux. This wine is delicious with a power that builds to a brambled fruit finish. It is perfection with the bitterness of the kale, the hit of the horseradish and the sweetness from the maple-roasted carrots. The beef is real melt-in-your-mouth richness so the silky texture of the wine is perfect. It’s a must try and I can’t wait for people coming along to taste it all together.'
Gemma: ‘What kind of people should come along? Who is this wine pairing dinner good for?’
John: ‘I promise it’s for everyone who enjoys wine. It’s not stuffy, it’s not full of jargon that makes it hard to follow. It’s a cracking night with great food, excellent company, really interesting wine chat and knowledge and a chance to learn how to enjoy and appreciate wine in new ways for the rest of your life.’